Guide · Vračar
Where to drink in Vračar: a short guide to the neighbourhood
Vračar is Belgrade's most walkable central neighbourhood — leafy streets, the Temple of Saint Sava glowing over the rooftops, and more good places to drink per square kilometre than anywhere else in the city. Here's how a local evening here actually looks.
Start: coffee or spritz around Kalenić market
The streets around Kalenić green market (Njegoševa, Maksima Gorkog) fill up from late afternoon. Grab a table outside any café, order a spritz or a domestic craft beer, and watch the neighbourhood come home from work. This is where Belgrade's slow-evening culture is at its most honest.
Dinner: kafana or modern Serbian
Vračar does both ends well — old-school kafanas with live tamburica music and grilled everything, and newer bistros reworking Serbian classics. Either way, expect to eat late: locals rarely sit down before 20:00.
After dark: author's cocktails at Čin Čin
Full disclosure — this is our bar, so we're biased. Čin Čin sits on Radoslava Grujića 28, about seven minutes on foot from the Temple of Saint Sava. We pour author's cocktails built on house infusions: Čin-tonic on anchan-flower gin (750 RSD), Serbian Breakfast — dark rum, bourbon and coffee liqueur served under smoke — and Midnight Pearls, a cocktail inside an edible sphere. The wine list runs from Serbian Kadarka to organic orange wines. Open Tuesday–Sunday from 18:00; book a table on weekends.
Late: rakija before home
No Vračar night ends without someone suggesting a rakija. Say yes once. Quince (dunja) is the gentlest introduction; honey rakija (medovača) if you want dessert in a glass.
Getting here
Vračar is a 15-minute walk from Terazije and Slavija square, or a short taxi from anywhere central — drivers know "Hram" (the Temple) as a landmark. The neighbourhood is safe to walk at any hour.
Visit Čin Čin →